Archives for category: Sacramento Mountains

Overview:

Dry Falls in Beeman Canyon  (the turn-around point) from Spectacle Trail

Dry Falls in Beeman Canyon (the turn-around point) from Sentinel Trail

Are you yearning for a morning in the mountains complete with canyon scenery, numerous small bouldering problems, blue sky, variegated rock and a desert-dominated biome? This is the hike for you! Nestled into the corner where US-82 departs west from US-70, this small canyon brings you into some lonesome terrain. The highlight of this off-trail scramble is a bouldery segment of canyon known as the Jumble. Wending your way up, over and around this boulder barrier is a fun and mildly athletic challenge. At the upper end of the Jumble is a dry waterfall, which might be climbable but is characterized by seriously rotten rock. A better alternative is to ascend the steep canyon wall and discover an unlikely horse path called the Sentinel Trail. On this date we turned west and headed back towards the basin on the trail. A longer day could be made by following the canyon as it reaches towards the sky on the flanks of Horse Ridge.

Driving Directions:

  • From University Avenue in Las Cruces, enter Interstate-25 going north
  • After 4.3 miles, take exit 6 for US-70E to Alamogordo (the exit splits into three roads, stay in the center for US-70E)
  • After 63.6 miles, immediately after the third stoplight entering Alamogordo, take the exit ramp for the Charlie Lee Memorial Relief Route (CLMRR).
  • After 0.2 miles, at the end of the ramp, turn left onto the CLMRR (going north).
  • After 5.0 miles, at a lighted intersection, turn right onto US-70.
  • After 0.4 miles, at a lighted intersection, turn left onto Scenic Drive.
  • After 1.5 miles turn left into the parking lot for the Christ Community Church.

Trailhead:

The mighty Camry and Mike (in front of his truck) in the Christ Community Church parking lot.

The mighty Camry and Mike (in front of his truck) in the Christ Community Church parking lot.

As you enter the grounds for the Christ Community Church there is a small gravel pad immediately on your right (east of the entry lane). Park in the gravel lot.

You will need to find alternative parking on Sundays or whenever there is any sign that the church has need of these parking spaces. We did not test this, but a possible alternative might be found immediately uphill of the church. On Scenic Drive, go past the church to the next opening in the concrete center-strip. There turn left and enter onto a dirt road. This dirt road takes you about 0.1 miles east, turns 90-degrees to due north and travels towards Beeman Canyon. After driving past four houses on your right (and just past the church on your left) you should be able to find a suitable parking space on the side of the road. There are no trailhead amenities at either trailhead. There are no fees.

Data:

  • Starting Elevation: 4560 feet
  • Ending Elevation: 5600 feet
  • Net Gain: 1040 feet
  • Distance: 6.1 miles (round trip)
  • Maps: USGS Alamogordo North

Hike Description:

Mike on the limestone floor of lower Beeman Canyon

Mike on the limestone floor of lower Beeman Canyon

From the trailhead, head north and walk past the church towards a water tank at the rear of the property. Just past the water tank is a small dirt berm that blocks vehicular traffic. Cross the berm and join up with a dirt road headed north. (This is the same dirt road that is suggested as an alternative trailhead).

At 0.5 miles the road crosses a broad and stoney wash that is the outflow of Beeman Canyon. Past the wash (actually, teetering on the edge of its far bank) a second dirt road departs to the right. Go right as this road swings northeast towards the mountains and then shyly turns back to a northerly course. In little over 0.1 miles from the first turn come to a four-way intersection of dirt roads and go right. On this new road you will be heading directly east. Go boldly into the mountains. A plethora of possible roads come in on your left, but ignore them. As long as you keep the wash on your right you can’t miss the canyon. At about 0.9 miles from the trailhead the wash makes a sharp S-bend and rock walls arise on the outside curves. Welcome to Beeman Canyon.

Twin, trailer-sized boulders announce the approach of the Jumble.

Twin, trailer-sized boulders announce the approach of the Jumble.

The hike into the lower canyon is a very mellow stroll. The bottom switches between scrubbed bedrock and stretches of sand and small rock. Layered limestone lines the walls. The available soils are so thin that you might expect to the canyon to be completely barren, yet cacti cling to crevices and both yucca and sotol will sprout where-ever a cup of earth has been deposited. There are no navigation problems – you simply stay in the canyon bottom. At about 1.7 miles from the trailhead, come to a pair of trailer-sized boulders that serve notice that the Jumble is nearby. The hike immediately above this portal is fairly open. There may be a few isolated, easy boulder blocks in the canyon bed, but it will be another 0.4 miles to get to the continuous heap-o-boulders that characterizes the Jumble.

Mike bouldering above the gateway to the Jumble

Mike bouldering above the gateway to the Jumble

At about 2.1 miles from the trailhead the bed of the canyon becomes thick with person-sized, roughly egg-shaped boulders. It is a puzzle to explain how the huge, angular rocks that protrude from the canyon walls become so markedly rounded on the canyon floor. Wind and water doubtlessly have central roles. Both factors, however, are at play in nearby places like Ortega Canyon, North Marble Canyon and South Marble Canyon. None of these nearby canyons present similar boulder playgrounds. Is the rock softer in Beeman? Does the lower angle of the grade allow for longer weathering? Regardless, the playground is there in front of you. Enjoy the challenge.

Mike on an exposed spot in mid-Jumble

Mike on an exposed spot in mid-Jumble

In most places the climbing moves are straightforward and scramblers will have little problem getting past them. There are a few spots, however, where boulder has piled upon boulder and climbing brings exposure. Scramblers who are not comfortable with these moves need only look around. There is almost always a side trail that will take you up the canyon wall and around the climbing problem, although with new challenges in the form of “shin stabbers” and prickly pear. You can’t avoid those problematic plants by climbing. Several of the hardest moves in the canyon are complicated by vegetation that is every bit as prickly as it is inconveniently placed.

This dry waterfall is where we turned around. The waterfall looks climbable, but some of its shelves are supported by exceptionally friable stone.

This dry waterfall is where we turned around. The waterfall looks climbable, but some of its shelves are supported by exceptionally friable stone.

The canyon ascent ends at a tall waterfall at about 3.3 miles from the trailhead. Be careful around this waterfall as the rock is notably rotten and there are huge boulders hanging overhead. You will find freshly fallen rock right at the base of the falls. Unlike their rounded downstream relatives, each new-fallen rock looks as though it had been had been squared by quarrymen. This dry waterfall is an outstanding place for a break. Have a snack and take in views across the Tularosa Basin to the San Andreas Mountains or scope out the high canyon walls above you.

Sample of the faint track on the steep side of Beeman Canyon.

Sample of the faint track on the steep side of Beeman Canyon.

Although it seems improbable, there is an old horse trail on the steep southern wall of Beeman Canyon (looking up-canyon it will be the right wall). Ascend on loose gravel, past sotol and yucca, in the direction of the cliff that forms the canyon top. Less than 50 feet above the floor of the waterfall you should encounter a faint old track. (Keep checking over your shoulder since it is easier to see the trail from above than from below). You could turn uphill and follow the track as it climbs into the upper end of Beeman Canyon. On this date, however, we turned right to gain the ridge and then begin a descent.

Sloping shelf below the cliff line above Beeman Canyon.

Sloping shelf below the cliffs above Beeman Canyon.

This trail, called the Sentinel Trail, makes a brief and gentle climb to just above 5600 feet. There it contours below the cliffs on a sloping shelf.  The cliffs are being slowly worn into hoodoos – several free-standing stone towers become apparent as you near them. The shelf itself is a desert wonderland of brown grasses, chaparral and stuff that prickles or stabs. If the grasses have grown over the trail then walk along at mid-shelf until you regain the tread. Great views open to the northern ridge above Beeman (Horse Ridge) and beyond to the northern Tularosa Basin. Don’t forget to look down into the canyon bottom, the view of the waterfall and the top of the Jumble is extraordinary.

One of the taller hoodoos in the Spectacle.

One of the taller hoodoos in the Sentinels.

While you walk west on a nearly level path, the rocky rim above you is descending. The top of the ridge approaches the level of the trail at about 3.8 miles from the trailhead. Here you will find a cluster of house-tall hoodoos known as the Sentinels. There are views past these towering rocks and across the basin to White Sands National Monument. We had an exceptionally clear day for this hike and the individual sand dunes in the Monument were clearly visible. The tread becomes more obvious beyond this spot as it eases out onto the broad top of Beeman Ridge. The trail is rubbly and in places rather deeply cut into ridge-top soils. From the ridge you can look south across the Sacramento Mountains as they tower above Alamogordo.

View of the knoll where the main trail departs north, but a useful side trail trends east back to the trailhead.

View of the knoll where the main trail departs north (right), but a useful side trail trends east back to the trailhead. Double click for larger image.

As you get close to the basin watch for a junction where the main trail diverts north to skirt around a knoll. You will want to find a secondary trail that goes east (left, looking downhill) and descends a rib in the direction of the trailhead. In ordinary weather the large building of Christ Community Church will be in sight. While descending the rib you may spot an old well on a flanking arroyo wall. The well appears to have been dug into a seep above the arroyo, years ago. Since that time the walls of the arroyo have worn down and opened the well like a cut-away diagram.

Return to the trailhead having hiked 6.1 miles.

Recommendations:

Half cut-away view into an old well on the side of the arroyo below the

Half cut-away view into an old well on the side of the arroyo below the knoll

♦This is a great hike for folks who are comfortable being off trail and in good enough shape to do small bouldering problems. Beeman Canyon is probably too difficult for young children, risk-adverse parents or the strongly acrophobic. Just about anyone, however, may find that the road and the broad canyon bed in the lower part of the canyon makes for a very enjoyable stroll. An easy hike can be had by turning back at the “gates” for the Jumble.

♦This was a terrific mid-winter scramble. On this date the weather was very mild, so I only went through a liter of water. Under warmer conditions this west-facing canyon would get toasty. Adjust your water load accordingly.

♦The Sacramento Mountains do rattle and they are home to various stinging insects. Especially in warmer weather, be careful about where you place your hands. Even the plants can sting, so gloves are strongly recommended.

♦This hike crosses private land. Please keep these kind folks happy by treating their property respectfully.

Links:

View of cliff-tops above the dry falls in Beeman Canyon.

View of cliff-tops above the dry falls in Beeman Canyon.

♦Mike, who led this hike, has a description on the Hike Arizona site that takes you all the way into the upper part of Beeman Canyon and its North Fork.

♦That’s about it! This fun little scramble seems to be almost unknown on the web.

Overview:

White Horse Hill and headwaters of Bonito Creek

White Horse Hill and headwaters of Bonito Creek

This is a mellow hike into spectacular high country near Sierra Blanca (southern New Mexico’s highest peak). The trail follows a creek up the gentle easterly slopes of the Sierra Blanca Range to the crest. On you way, you tread through forests of pine and fir that that transition to aspen and oak and then abruptly opens onto montane grassland. A productive monsoon season and rain from Hurricane Odile have left this corner of New Mexico implausibly green; the streams are brimming. Enjoy the photos but recognize that the forests are rarely so lush.

Driving Directions:

  • From Lohman Drive in Las Cruces, turn onto I-25 North.
  • After 2.5 miles, take the exit for US 70-East.
  • After  62.5 miles, immediately after the third traffic light on US 70 in Alamagordo, go right on the ramp for the Charlie Lee Memorial Relief Route.
  • After 0.3 miles, at the end of the ramp, go left (north) on the CLMR Route.
  • After  4.9 miles, at a stoplight, go left (north) on US 54-N/US 70-E.
  • After  43.2 miles, at a stoplight, go left (west, initially) onto NM 48.
  • After 12.8 miles go left (west, initially) onto NM 37 (signed)
  • After 1.2 miles, go left (west) onto Forest Road 107. This is a gravel road with occassional stretches of pavement and in good enough shape for a sedan. Watch for quite large potholes even in those stretches that are paved. The road wends it way through the Bonito Stables at about the 5 mile point. There the buildings, horses and dogs are situated very close to, and sometimes within, the extremely rocky roadbed. It pays to go very, very slowly for that 200 yard stretch.
  • After 8.3 miles, at the end of FR 107, park your car at the trailhead.

Trailhead:

The mighty Camry, parked beneath signs for Trail 36 Big Bonito Creek

The mighty Camry, parked beneath signs for Trail 36 Big Bonito Creek

The trailhead is found at the end of a loop that terminates FR 107. It is an active spot, with much car camping along Bonito Creek. Several trails leave from this loop, look for a sign for Big Bonito Trail No 36 at the far end of the loop. There are pit toilets and at least one corral (the area is a favorite for riders). Water is available from Bonito Creek, but given the heavy horse and human usage you will want to sterilize it. Also, the river is running a dark brown these days. Presumably, that the color comes from trees burned in the Little Bear Fire of 2012. Consider bringing a bucket to the trailhead and allowing some time for the murk to settle out before trying to use a filter.

Data:

  • Starting Elevation: 7850 feet
  • Ending Elevation: 10,250 feet
  • Net Gain: 2400 feet
  • Distance: 11.2 miles
  • Map: USGS Nogal Peak quadrangle

Hike Description:

Brown and energetic water at one of the many stream crossings. (Note hiking pole, for perspective).

Brown and energetic water at one of the many stream crossings. (Note hiking pole, for perspective).

From the trailhead, follow trail 36 as it crosses a tributary stream and enters the Wilderness Area (signed). The hike starts along the right side of Bonito Creek (looking uphill), but canyon walls soon force a crossing. In the post-monsoon season the waters were fast, brown and broad. You will get your feet wet. For most of the rest of the year the stream is probably too small to be much of a barrier. The terrain is very gently inclined, limiting the power of the water. There are, however, eight or nine creek crossings. In between the crossings the trail tends to make small upward leaps and then levels off again to return to the creek bank. The forest is dense and shows considerable sign of recovering from the Little Bear fire. A lot of nice work has gone into cutting up the deadfall and keeping the trail open.

Sign at confluence of Aspen and Bonito Creek.

Sign at confluence of Aspen and Bonito Creek.

A trail junction is reached at about 1 mile, where Little Bonito Creek Trail 37 departs to the right. Stay left and follow trail 36 as it continues along Big Bonito Creek. In another mile come to a second trail junction where Aspen Creek joins Big Bonito Creek. This is the start of the loop. Craig Martin, in “100 Hikes In New Mexico” describes the clockwise loop going up Aspen Creek Trail Number 35. This guide describes the counterclockwise option, selected so as to get creek crossings out of the way. (As it turns out, the crossing over Big Bonito Creek to get to Aspen Creek No 35 is almost the last of the creek crossings). To go counterclockwise, stay to the right on Trail 36 as the cliffy aspect of the terrain falls away. The hike becomes a stroll in high mountain valley, deep in Ponderosa and Douglas firs, with only occasional glimpses of rolling hills on either side and above you. The comparison between this lush forest and the desert biome of the Tularosa Basin defies belief. It could be a contrast between continents rather than adjacent landforms.

Path through forest in the  hanging valley that contains Big Bonito Creek

Path through forest in the hanging valley that contains Big Bonito Creek

The grade remains very mild as you rise through the forest and enter a domain of aspen and scrub oak The reason for the shallow incline is that Bonito Creek does not descend straight from the Crest to the east. Instead, the stream begins by descending from White Horse Hill to the west, soon changes it’s course to the north and, tentatively, begins a commitment to a easterly course towards the Pecos basin. The long, looping nature of the stream gentles it greatly. The terrain is home to much wild life. The trail presented several garter snakes and innumerable young horn toad, elk tracks were everywhere and the sound of elk bugling was common. If you watch carefully you may find cougar prints as well. Oddly for a New Mexico hike the grasses were very wet. Boots, gaiters and pants, already be soaked by the creek crossings, may remain soaked for as long as the tread stays within the forest.

Cloud shrouded crest

Cloud shrouded crest

At 4.7 miles and 9200 feet, reach a saddle on the crest. Normally you encounter nice views west into the Tularosa Basin and the far San Andreas range. On this date rapidly thickening cumulus clouds had nestled against the western slopes and blocked views in that direction. Views north to Nogal Peak and beyond to the Capitan range were fantastic.  The clouds were kind enough to stay off White Horse Hill, but whiteout conditions could make grassland navigation a bit dicey.

Open grasslands surrounding Bonito Seep

Open grasslands surrounding Bonito Seep

The trail side-hills off of the crest and even descends a little into the upper reaches of Bonito Creek. Wet seasons produce an exuberant grassland and the vegetation frequently obscures long stretches of trail. In the photo to the left, there is a small copse of oak near the center, between a gentle depression (holding Bonito Seep) on the left and a deeper swale coming in from the right.  The trail descends toward that copse, rises briefing along the right hand swale, crosses into the copse and then across the stream from Bonito Seep. After that, it is so grass-obscured that there are only traces of trail until just above the cliff band at the top-right of the picture. Do not count on the trail bed for navigation!

Elk serenade on the Sierra Blanca crest.

Elk serenade on the Sierra Blanca crest.

From the cliff top, the trail makes a decisive turn north (left in the picture above) to rise to a rib that separates two branches of Bonito Creek. As you rise above 9,000 feet the air gets pretty thin. Take your time. This time of year the elk bulls advertise their presence by “bugling“, a loud and seemingly dismal brand of screeching that may make you wonder if a rescue operation needs commencing. Wild terrain.  After reaching the rib the tread contours to the east, directly beneath the summit of White Horse Hill. You can ascend to the summit (off trail) at any time, although there is something to be said for first regaining the crest on the east side of White Horse where the terrain is slightly less steep.

View to White Horse HIll summit from the east side.

View to White Horse Hill summit from a sign post on the east side.

Arrive at the summit at 6.5 miles. You get a glimpse of Sierra Blanca to the south, views east to the Pecos basin, north to the Capitan Mountains, and west (on a less cloudy day) down Three Rivers Canyon to the Tularosa Basin. In September at 10,000 feet the winds can make the grassy summit a chilly spot. Take some photos, sign in on the summit register (inside a small cairn), and perhaps grab a bite to eat on the lee side of the hill.  The way off of the summit is due east – look about for a broad saddle between White Horse Hill and an adjacent crest prominence that is partially blanketed with burned trees.

Horned toad alongside Trail 35

Horned toad alongside Trail 35

Descending from the summit towards the saddle you enter a patch of widely spaced pines, two of which are snags. Near one of those snags there is an old sign post (see picture above). The trail is just a few feet away from the post. If the grasses have obscured the trail, simply continue east to the saddle where a Forest Service sign advertises the intersection of the Crest Trail No 25 with Three Rivers Trail No 44 (going to the west) and Aspen Creek Trail No 35 (going east, and back to the trailhead). Take the Aspen Creek Trail as it follows the top of a rib, nearly flat, to the northwest. After short descent you will come to a second saddle that is currently covered with exceptionally short grass. It may be a preferred dining spot for elk. The trail was overgrown here, but you want to descend towards the southeast (right, looking downhill). The trail makes a high contour across the bowl and then begins switchbacking down towards the waters of Aspen Creek. Look for garter snakes, horned toads, and raptors aplenty.

After reaching the woods at the bottom of the bowl the tread gentles considerably. The remaining descent along Aspen Creek is much like the ascent – an easy tread in pine and fir forest. Eventually Aspen Creek rejoins Big Bonito Creek and you begin to reverse all the creek crossings you made earlier. Arrive back at the trailhead having gone about 11.2 miles. (Milage may vary, depending on how much switchbacking you do in the grasslands near Bonito Seep).

 Recommendations:

Author on White Horse Hill.

Author on White Horse Hill.

Do this hike!

Ordinarily, New Mexico conditions are too dry to support the extraordinary greens and the the exceptional rush of water described here. Still, hikers with small children or pets might want to remain watchful in snowmelt or monsoon conditions.

Summer is over. Two liters of water was plenty on this date. (August hikes will be different).

Whiteout conditions can be very disorienting – note the clouds in some of the photos! Bring a map up to the crest grasslands and keep it oriented to the surrounding terrain. An inadvertant westerly descent into the Tularosa Basin could rob your day of its glory.

Bow season has started and there was no shortage of hunters at the campground. One hunter reported that the area was so popular that you could only get a license through a lottery process. This is a good time of the year to own some orange clothing.

Links:

♦The folks at ruidoso.net have a good overview of the trail. They comment that Big Bonito Creek ordinarily has water, although it is not reliable in the last half mile up to Bonito Seep.

♦Pobrist at TrimbleOutdoors.com has photos and a description of a similar hike. in this variation you ascend Big Bonito Creek #36, staying close to the creek bed all the way to Bonito Seep, where you meet the Crest Trail Number 25. Rather than going north and east towards White Horse Hill, you head west on the Crest Trail towards Argentina Peak. Just below Argentina Peak, pick up and descend Little Bonito Creek Trail #37, which takes you to Big Bonito and then back to the trailhead. It is just as long, but doesn’t gain as much altitude. It sounds great.

♦SouthernNewMexicoExplorer considers Big Bonito Creek from a fisherman’s perspective. While the fishing sounded pretty good in 2007, more recent reports suggest that the fish population suffered badly in the Little Baldy fire.

Dawn silhouette of Ortega Peak (left) and Hershberger Peak (right) from Alamogordo

Dawn silhouette of Ortega Peak (left) and Hershberger Peak (right) from Alamogordo

The head of Marble Canyon South arises close to the summit of Hershberger Peak and descends the west face towards Alamogordo, NM. The ascent of Marble Canyon South is entirely off-trail and physically demanding, markedly more so than last week’s description of routes off of the main canyon. Beginning hikers, the strongly acrophobic and those who dread feeling lost should look elsewhere for an enjoyable outdoors stroll. That said, there is much to induce a curious canyoneer to venture up onto the deeply carved westerly face in the Sacramento Mountains. There is a brief  section of slot canyon, steep stretches of scrubbed bedrock, overhanging canyon walls, dry waterfalls and an ascent to a sky-island forest of pinyon pine, alligator juniper and rocky  mountain juniper. There is an option to ascend to Hershberger summit (and possibly descend by the “A Trail“), but on this date we opted to descend by way of the The Mesa and the Goat Springs Trail. On the descent you have great views south to the promising terrain dominated by The Roundup Grounds mesa, Alamo Canyon and Caballero Canyon.

Driving Directions:

The drive to Marble Canyon South is exactly the same as the drive to Marble Canyon N3-N4 and N2.

Trailhead:

02 gravel pad parking

Gravel pad to south of Marble Estates Road, with parking that is closest to the mouth of Marble Canyon

The trailhead is a parking lot for a playground/park in Alamogordo. Some of our group parked a little further along Marble Estates Road, which seems advisable. Drive 250 feet on Marble Estates and turn right onto a large, level gravel pad with room for many cars. Looking south you will see a dirt road leading from the gravel pad to a second gravel pad at the mouth of Marble Canyon. Note that the second gravel pad is signed for Alamogordo City vehicles only.

Data:

  • Starting Elevation: 4800 feet
  • Highest Elevation: 7300 feet
  • Net Elevation Gain: 2500 feet
  • Distance: 8.1 miles
  • Maps: Most of the hike is shown near the bottom edge of the USGS Alamogordo North quadrangle. A small part of the descent along rib descending from Hershberger Peak to The Mesa lies on the top edge of the Alamogordo South quadrangle (which is also very handy for identifying southerly features like Alamo Canyon). If you are going to summit Hershberger and try to descend by way of the A-Trail then you will also want the map to the east, the High Rolls quadrangle.

Description:

Mouth to Marble Canyon viewed from above the large concrete flume

Mouth to Marble Canyon viewed from above the large concrete flume

From the playground parking lot follow Marble Estates Road as it goes briefly south and swings east. In about 250 feet from the trailhead there will be a large gravel pad to your right (south). Cross the pad and pick up a dirt road at the far end. The road will take you to a second gravel pad less than a quarter mile from the trailhead. (This is the site signed for official Alamogordo vehicles only). At the south end of the pad, about a quarter mile from the trailhead, is a large concrete flume set into the stream bed of Marble Canyon. Ascend along the edge of the flume and then drop into the bed of Marble Canyon.

05 entrance to South Marble CanyonFollow Marble Canyon into the mountains, crossing a dirt driveway that crosses the canyon above the flume and then upper Marble Canyon Road at three-quarters of a mile. Take special note of the canyon walls above your head to the south (to your right, headed up hill) as sticking too close to the northern wall might cause you to miss the mouth of Marble Canyon South. The floor of the canyon is nearly level here and composed of loose gravel and occasional piles of boulders. It is easy going (for now). At 0.9 miles pass the last house on Marble Canyon Road and begin traversing below the old marble mine. Large blocks of cut stone are scattered all the way to the canyon bed. At 1.0 miles, reach the mouth of South Marble Canyon.

View into North Branch, South Marble Creek Canyon from the bed of South Marble Creek Canyon

View into North Branch, South Marble Creek Canyon from the bed of South Marble Creek Canyon

Head south (right) into Marble Canyon South following the canyon bed as it traverses below tall canyon walls. The footing remains gravelly, although there are a few steps that require a climbing move or two.  Often there are paths around these blockages, most often to the bank on the west side (right hand) of the canyon bed. At 1.4 miles from the trailhead, pass the mouth of a side canyon (I don’t know its name). It gets little attention since the mouth of the brief slot canyon is only 200 feet further upstream. There was a trifle of water running in the bottom of the slots, surprising in so dry a set of years. Clamber through this terrain –  all too quickly, maybe 150 feet – and resume the upward tread on loose gravel.

07 ice on scrubbed bedrock

Ice coating the scrubbed bedrock floor of South Marble Canyon

At 1.9 miles the canyon turns sharply to the east, aimed more directly uphill. At 2.0 miles come to a confluence of canyons. The one of the left (to the north of the other) is called “North Spur, Marble Canyon South”. It also climbs steeply up the west face of Hershberger Peak. Stay right, taking the more southerly of the branches to remain in South Marble Canyon. The canyon acquires a tighter feel, partly due to the smaller flow of water above the other mouths, partly due to the increasing incline of the bed and much due to the increasingly close canyon walls.

View down waterfall to water pan at the base.

View down waterfall to water pot at the base.

As you climb higher the floor of the canyon tends to become scrubbed bedrock and the climbing problems become more demanding. As before, each of these can be skirted by retreating down-canyon for a dozen (or so) feet and looking for faint treads that climb the debris slopes at the base of the canyon walls. Rock in the canyon can be rotten. That is, it shows a tendency to break away under pressure. Test your hand holds and foot holds. Most of the climbing problems arise where the canyon walls have pinched together and trapped boulders or where abrasion-resistant strata have produced waterfalls.

View into the upper canyon were it diverges left from a broad bedrock floor.

DJ standing below the upper canyon (above him to his right) at a confluence on a broad bedrock floor.

There are two places where the route becomes notably ambiguous. At 2.7 miles from the trailhead a hint of a forest appears. The alligator juniper and pinion pine are beautiful but they obscure views to the surrounding terrain. Watch that you stay left in the brush-obscured canyon bed rather than diverting upwards in a steep but relatively open side cut coming down from the south rim. At 3.0 miles, in an expanse of very steep but open bedrock, come to the reverse problem. A very appealing cut, floored with scrubbed bedrock, comes down from the north ridge and appears to be the obvious route for Marble Canyon South. It isn’t. Turn your eyes right, to what appears to be a forested cut coming down from the south canyon rim. That is the actual bed.  Up there the canyon is rising aggressively.

Looking down South Marble Canyon from the top of the most difficult waterfall climb.

Looking down South Marble Canyon from the top of the most exposed waterfall climb.

Up and up and steeply up! There is one particular waterfall in this area that is climbable (one of our party ascended directly up the right-side of the face) but is also somewhat rotten and notably exposed. Look for a faint tread up the north (left) side to get get around the waterfall if your climbing skills are not of that caliber. At the top of the fall, turn back and enjoy the view (only feebly captured on the photo to the left). From US 70 in Alamogordo you could not have known that this canyon wonderland existed on the bland face of Hershberger Peak.

Looking up-canyon to the overhanging rock wall that forms the upper amphitheaters.

Looking up-canyon to the overhanging rock wall that forms the upper amphitheaters.

Finally, at 3.3 miles, enter an amphitheater beneath tall and overhanging rock. This is the high point in the canyon bed.  Find shade beneath the evergreens that thrive in the amphitheater, have lunch and admire the distant San Andreas Mountains across the broad Tularosa Basin. The cliff band above your head extends way across the west face of Hershberger and appears to give rise to the amphitheater above the North Branch, Marble Canyon South.

View to Roundup Mesa and Alamogordo Canyon from Mesa Rib on Hershberger Peak

View to The Roundup Grounds Mesa and Alamo Canyon from Mesa Rib on Hershberger Peak

Once rested, traverse below the overhanging rock towards the south wall of the canyon. (To the right, looking up hill). Climb the south wall on loose dirt amid well spaced trees in the lowest reaches of the Lincoln National Forest. Resist the temptation to descend towards The Mesa below you as there are some cliff bands between you and the mesa. Maintain a steeply rising traverse, and at 3.7 miles hit the fall line of the rib that descends from Hershberger Peak to The Mesa. Look west for a clear view of the terrain that will take you down to The Mesa. Look north into depths of Marble Canyon and marvel at the ascent you have just made. Look south into the rugged terrain of Alamo Canyon and it’s innumerable tributaries.

12 Goat Canyon mouth

Waterfall in mouth of Goat Canyon immediately above Alamogordo

Descend to The Mesa at 5.3 miles and follow Goat Springs Trail above the northern cliffs to a gully that cuts the cliff bands. Follow Goat Springs Trail as it descends this gully and then turns west to traverse below the cliff bands that support The Mesa. At 6.5 miles the trail reaches upper Goat Springs (which was flowing) and then descends into the damp bed of Goat Springs Canyon. The trail makes a brief climb to the south rim of the canyon and leads to a trail junction just below a large home at 6.9 miles. Go left to descend into the spectacular lower reaches of Goat Springs Canyon or go right for a more direct return to the trailhead. We opted for Goat Springs Canyon.

Evening view of mouth of Marble Canyon from the aqueduct

Evening view of mouth of Marble Canyon seen from the aqueduct

At 7.25 miles strike a dirt road and go right, downhill towards the Alamogordo aqueduct. Follow the road beside the concrete aqueduct north to return to the mouth of Marble Canyon at 7.8 miles. The road will return you to the trailhead at 8.1 miles.

Recommendations:

We had a surprising February day; the temperature would rise above 80 degrees in the Tularosa Basin and I suspect it was close to 70 degrees in the sunnier canyon locations. I went through all three liters of water in my pack. If you go summer, bring a lot of water. Consider making this a dawn hike, as the canyons will remain out of the suns rays for much of the morning.

I found it hard to retain a clear idea of my map position as we ascended. It was not always easy to know which stream bed was the main canyon and which was a “side cut”. Fortunately Mike lead this trip and he was familiar with the terrain. If your group does not have a local expert in it, then get everyone to maintain a good attitude towards exploration rather than merely covering ground.

If your party intends to climb to Hershberger Summit then you could have a long day in front of you. It would be a good excuse for getting new batteries into your headlamp, particularly for short wintertime days.

Links:

Mike has written up Marble Canyon South here and here, with a particularly useful focus on the variety of terrain you can find in this scramble. If you are interested in the North Spur of Marble Canyon South, you can read about his ascent  here.

Samat has a brief writeup of the hike over at AllTrails.

A photographer identified only as “Wilkie” has posted a photo looking down the waterfall to the water pot that is almost identical to the one shown seven photos above. It was taken only week before, but Wilkie has very usefully included a subject in the photograph to give you a much clearer sense of perspective.

Overview:

01 View of Tularoas from Slab Canyon

View down N4 (Slab Canyon) to White Sands and San Andreas Mountains

Marble Canyon is in the Sacramento Mountains above the town of Alamogordo.  It divides Ortega Peak to the north from Hershberger Peak to the south. The head of the main canyon begins high on the east face of Hershberger Peak, swiftly wraps to the north face and then tumbles a long ways straight west towards the Tularosa Basin. There are many side canyons that drain into the main canyon. This scramble begins at the mouth of the main canyon but diverts north, leaving the main canyon and ascending side canyons that descend from Ortega Peak. These northerly cuts are designated N1, N2, N3 and N4.  (The first three join together and share a single drainage into the main canyon, while N4 connects directly to the main canyon). This report describes a combination of two distinct ascents. The first ascent goes up cut N4 (also called Slab Canyon), climbs over a ridge top and then descends in cut N3. The second ascent is in cut N2. It climbs to a waterfall high in N2 and then descends N2 all the way back to the main canyon.

You can hardly get lost since Alamogordo is often in sight and always directly below you. Still, this is not a beginner’s trip into the mountains. It is off-trail, poking through gnarled terrain, brushy, boulder-blocked, strenuous and steep. Occasional rock climbing moves are needed although the exposure is never very high.

Driving Directions:

Follow the driving directions for Ortega Canyon South until you are almost at end of East 10th Street in Alamogordo. Just before the fire station at the upper end of East 10th, turn right onto Marble Estates Road. (Marble Estates road turns into Marble Canyon Road, but the road sign on upper end of East 10th Street just says Marble Estates). There is parking on your left just after you turn.

Trailhead:

The mighty Camry at Alamogordo playground park (and Marble Canyon trailhead)

The mighty Camry at Alamogordo playground park (and Marble Canyon trailhead)

The trailhead we used is a playground parking lot. There is no trail sign and I did not see a water fountain. There are trash cans but no other amenities.

It should possible to drive on Marble Estates Road a few hundred more feet and park in a large, flat, open area south of the paved road. That would leave the playground parking open and also trim off a little of the least interesting part of the hike.

Data:

  • Start Elevation: 4800 feet
  • Top of N4: 6640 feet
  • Elevation Gained to top of N4: 1840 feet
  • Elevation Gained in N2: 700 feet
  • Total Elevation Gained: 2540 feet
  • Distance: 5.5 miles round trip
  • Maps: The Alamogordo North quadrangle shows the trailhead and canyons described in this report. The local summits (Ortega Peak and Hersherberger Peak) are on the quadrangle to the east, High Rolls.

A note on nomenclature. The main Marble Canyon drainage descends from a peak called Hershberger on Google Maps and Alamo/Hershberger Peak on both USGS and Acme Mapper 2.1 maps. Since this report uses Google Maps to show the route it will stick with Hershberger. The side-canyon designations (N1, N2 etc) are those used by the folks at the Alamogordo Trails meetup group.

Trail:

House-dwarfing flume below mouth of Marble Canyon

House-dwarfing flume below mouth of Marble Canyon

Ascend along Marble Estates/Marble Canyon road for about 250 feet and turn right onto a flat, open gravel pad. Cross the pad south and enter a dirt road that will take you, at about 1200 feet from the trailhead, to an enormously wide concrete flume.  Ascend along the north edge of the flume and then enter the stream bed above it. Stay in the canyon bed, crossing Marble Canyon Road at three quarters of a mile and enter the mouth of the canyon in under one mile (just past the uppermost home built in the canyon).

Boulder hopping in main Marble Canyon drainage

Boulder hopping in main Marble Canyon drainage

At one mile from the trailhead note a major side canyon coming in from the south (called South Marble Canyon). Reportedly, South Canyon is a strenuous and more technical ascent than the N4-N3-N2 outing described here. Staying in the main canyon, the bed begins to incline more steeply and the way becomes occasionally clotted with boulders and tree branches. At 1.3 miles from the trailhead come to the mouth of the drainage on your left that includes cuts N1, N2 and N3. Your descent route will return to this point. There is a prominent cliff band above this mouth called Marble Bluff. It is a useful landmark for taking your position at various points along the scramble.

Steep and bouldery entrance into N4 (Slab Canyon)

Mike leading the steep and bouldery entrance into N4 (Slab Canyon)

Go past the mouth of N1, continue boulder hopping and pushing past occasional thickets until you reach the mouth of N4 (Slab Canyon) on your left at 1.6 miles.  The entrance is somewhat obscured by a berm-like pile of rock and gravel so keep your eyes open for a cut breaking open the north wall (your left, ascending). It is very easy to walk past it. The N4 entrance is steep, piled with boulders and rather heavily vegetated. Heavy gloves are recommended. At 1.8 miles from the trailhead N4 opens up and the canyon floor becomes a smoothly rounded gully carved into bedrock. Steep in places, the canyon is a pleasure to ascend. The canyon walls are sometimes vertical, there is abundant (often prickly) vegetation. It was our good fortunate that Mike, who lead the scramble, had been up earlier in the week and cleared openings in the thickest brush.

Evergreen tree obscuring the exit to rim of N4

Evergreen tree obscuring the exit to rim of N4

On a mid-winter day the canyon bottom held numerous small pots of water but we saw no wildlife.  The presence of a neighboring Airforce Base (Holloman) was advertised by occasional sonic booms. Look over your shoulder because there are great views to the distant San Andreas, the White Sands National Monument, and the gnarled terrain of the Marble Canyon drainage. At 2.2 miles the canyon seems to top out like a box canyon. A gully in the cliff line, slightly obscured by an evergreen tree, offers a way out of the box. N4 actually continues up above this point, but instead of following it we contoured north, crossing a gentle depression and gathering to look down into cut N2. There is a view to the top of a waterfall that will be the end point of the (later) N2 ascent.

Terry (above) and DJ (within) negotiating the large step in N3

Terry (above) and DJ (within) negotiating the large step in N3

Turn down hill and descend east-south-east into the “gentle depression” mentioned above. It slowly acquires walls and firms up as a very small canyon – N3. (You could argue for ravine status – you would have to hike hunched over if you wanted to keep your head below the canyon rim). At about 2.6 miles from the trailhead there is an 10 foot drop that marks the “crux” move for this canyon. Don’t worry as there are abundant foot and hand holds. The terrain is again quite bushy and very prickly. Even with leather gloves on you will want to place your gloves carefully.

Terry, Summer and John leading up N3

Terry, Summer and John leading up N2

At 2.9 miles you will come to the mouth of N3 as it enters into the larger bed of canyon N2. You could continue your descent in the common drainage of N1, N2 and N3 to get back to the main canyon. Or, you can head upwards in cut N2. We chose the latter.

View down N3 from top of 2-step waterfall

View down N2 from top of 2-step waterfall

Push upwards in bushy and boulder-strewn terrain. In 100 yards find a much more open canyon bottom. There are numerous places where the bottom is made up by ledge systems (staircases) or smoothly scoured bedrock. One boulder problem had an overhang that made me regret my thick day pack. There is a second problem at a two-step waterfall. The lower step is an 8-ft wall that is conveniently solved by stemming off of a tree growing from the base of the step. The upper step is undercut, so we went to the right (looking uphill) and ascended on loose scree to get around the upper step.

John beneath large slab just before the upper waterfall

John beneath large slab just before the upper waterfall

At 3.3 miles from the trailhead the canyon bottom becomes unexpectedly forested (the canyon rim must be shading the trees) and at 3.4 miles you come to a point where a large rock slab leans against the canyon wall. The opening between the wall and slab is large enough to walk through, and you will find yourself in a cool grotto with hanging plants growing on the face of the waterfall that you had previously viewed above N4. The waterfall seems climbable (John in our group did some exploration) but we turned back down canyon at this point. The canyon is a pleasure to descend, as the staircases and scrubbed canyon bed make footing very easy. Enjoy the odd feeling of being able to look about on descent – the views into the Tularosa Basin are grand.

11 N2 Juniper

Possible Rocky Mountain Juniper (has brown bark that exfoliates in thin strips).

Return to the mouth of N3 at 3.9 miles and descend in the N1/N2/N3 bed. Watch for Marble Bluff to signal the distance to the main canyon. The angle lowers but the amount of debris under foot becomes greater as you return to the main drainage in Marble Canyon at 4.2 miles. Return down the main canyon and remain in the stream bed until striking the concrete flume. At the bottom of the flume turn north (right looking downhill) to return to Marble Estate Road. Reach the trailhead after traveling a total of just 5.5  incredible miles.

Recommendations:

The route is short but gains a great deal of altitude. I would not bring young children, out of shape hikers or new hikers on this trip. The waterfall and boulder problems could be hard on dogs.

Author in Slab Canyon with the Tularosa Basin in the background

Author in Slab Canyon with the Tularosa Basin in the background

We enjoyed a surprisingly warm winter’s day (it was expected to hit 61 degrees). I went through a 2 liter Platypus bag and would have finished the 1 liter bottle in my pack had it not been so inconvenient to get out.

The footing is “unnaturally good” in parts of the canyons and the downhill vistas are wide. It would have been useful to have along pair of binoculars on this hike. I could have used a larger zoom on my camera as well.

It would be easy to get misplaced in this jumbled terrain. There is no trail. View lines are often short. Nothing is signed. It can be difficult to know which cut is “N1”. If, for example, you accidentally wandered into South Marble Canyon it would be a while before the error was obvious. A GPS could be handy. Keep an eye out for Marble Bluff. At least the return route is always obvious. My thanks to Mike who both lead the group and who has previously spent a lot of time clearing small passages through the most impenetrable brush.

Links:

Interested in getting out into the Sacramento Mountains (or beyond)? Check out the Alamogordo Trails Meetup site.

Mike has detail descriptions of his hikes at ArizonaHiking.com (now a central source for hiking in all the states). Check out his N4 description.

Here is the Usual Internet Caveat: there are several trip reports for “Marble Canyon” that only describe the easiest and lowest section of the main canyon. E.g. MapMyHike. Don’t be fooled!  The hike described here gains a great deal more than 150 feet.

Overview:

Ortega Peak seen from A-trail as the trail approaches the forested region.

Ortega Peak seen from A-trail as the trail approaches the forested region.

Last September I got confused by the array of barbed wire fences near the mouth of Ortega Canyon, thinking that they meant to keep me out. I wound up taking the “A-Trail” up to Ortega Peak instead. This time, hiking with local experts, we threaded our way past the fences, ascended a beautiful canyon, exited near the canyon top and used the A-Trail for the short distance remaining to get to the summit. From the summit of Ortega the views are great: north to Sierra Blanca, east to the Sacramento crest, south over Marble Canyon to Hurshburger Peak, and west to the Tularosa Basin. Looking west we could see sand being wind-blasted into a thick haze above White Sands National Monument. The trail described here is a loop, ascending the canyon and returning by way of the A-Trail.

Driving Directions:

  • From University Ave in Las Cruces, enter I25 North
  • After 4.3 miles, take Exit 6 for US 70 East
  • After 62.3 more miles (and after the 3rd traffic light as you enter Alamogordo) take the exit for the Charlie Lee Memorial Relief Route
  • After 0.2 miles, at the end of the exit ramp, go left onto the Charlie Lee Memorial Relief Route
  • After 2.0 miles (at a light) go right onto E 10th Street.
  • After 3.1 miles E 10th Street ends. The road makes a sharp left and becomes Paiute Trail. Despite its name, Paiute Trail is a paved road.
  • After 0.2 miles, pull over to the (high) curb on the right and park car.

Trailhead:

Ortega Peak from Paiute Trail trailhead. The canyon is to your left (not visible here)

Ortega Peak from Paiute Trail trailhead. The canyon is to your left (not visible here)

There is no trailhead in the normal sense. You park at the curbside of a paved road that has suburban-style housing on the downhill side and open terrain rising towards the Sacramento Mountains crest on the uphill side. We parked close to the intersection of Sunny Circle Ave and Paiute Drive.

Data:

  • Start Elevation: 4600 feet
  • End Elevation: 7700 (Ortega Peak summit)
  • Net Gain: 3100 feet
  • Distance: 7.4 miles round trip
  • Maps: the canyons described here lie entirely within the Alamogordo North quadrangle. However, the summit block of Ortega Peak is on quadrangle just to the east, the High Rolls quadrangle. The latter may be useful since it identifies many of the peaks you’ll see just to the east of the summit.

Description:

Canyon bottom in bottom section of Ortega Canyon, just beyond the fences.

Canyon bed in bottom section of Ortega Canyon, just beyond the fences.

Head north along the (paved) Paiute Trail until you see a regular trail paralleling the road on the uphill side, about 10 feet away from the road. Follow this trail north for about 1500 feet until it intersects Thunder Road (also paved). Go right and follow the road westward. At half a mile from the trailhead the road passes beneath a big cylindrical tank (a city water tank, presumably). Just past the tank, depart the road uphill and enter what appears to be a stream bed. This is the mouth of Ortega Canyon. Soon you will encounter a barbed wire fence across the canyon bed. On this date the fence had been flattened to the ground and was trivial to step over. (Last year it was better suspended, however).  The next barbed wire fence, less than 100 feet up from the first, was still erect. Fortunately, there were openings cut into the fence to admit passage of canyoneers. The land is not “signed”, meaning there aren’t any “No Trespassing” or “Posted” signs. This is generous of the homeowners whose homes are immediately above the canyon bed. Please help keep the terrain open to the public by respecting their privacy.

First big set of natural staircases. The trail does not go over these stairs!

First big set of natural staircases. The trail does not go over these stairs!

The lower part of the canyon is comprised of boulder hopping and occasional passages over a few feet of bed rock. The terrain on either side modulates from sloping ravine sides to vertical rock walls. The bed bobs and weaves, presumably threading between the harder rock formations, and ascends at a moderate rate. Occasional rock walls and bedrock staircases appear, giving hints of things to come. On this outing an interesting feature was the number of tarantulas frozen to the canyon floor. We must have passed half a dozen, including one stuck to a small ice puddle.

Lower Water Fall in Ortega Canyon.

Lower Water Fall in Ortega Canyon.

At 1.2 miles from the trailhead you will come to a confluence of canyons, take the one on the left. This starts a northerly swing and then changes its mind, trending easterly towards the crest. At about 1.4 miles from the trailhead arrive at the lower waterfall, perhaps 25 feet tall. It seems climbable, and in fact a couple of our party scrambled to a ledge half way up the rock face. With a large party unequipped for climbing we turned back down the canyon for a few hundred feet.

Frozen tarantula on floor of the canyon.

Frozen tarantula on floor of the canyon.

..

Note on the map – I did not get a GPS reading for the waterfall.  The location mapped for this lower waterfall is merely guesswork. You’ll know when you get there when you hit the first feature of the canyon that involves climbing moves with real exposure.

06 re-entry chute into canyon above waterfall

Opening in canyon rim where we began a descent back into Ortega Canyon

Go back down-canyon from the base of the waterfall for about 200 feet. Reach a spot where the canyon is curving to your left and a shallow cut comes in on the northern side (right). Look carefully at the north wall for a steep and faint path leading up to the canyon rim. On the rim there isn’t any tread to follow. Just stay close to the rim and ascend 300 to 500 feet. You are looking for a break in the rim wall that will let you descend back into the canyon once you have ascended past the lower waterfall. The descent we chose was opened on the rim by a narrow, 6-foot tall, chute (almost a chimney) in the rocky rim-top. That leaves you on dirt and talus at a fairly high angle, but a careful descent will take you to a more gently sloped, almost shelf-like feature that descends towards the east (up canyon). After less than 100 feet, find a slight gully and descend to the canyon bed.

07 sidewalk like canyon bottom

Middle Ortega Canyon, a classic rockscape.

This is the middle canyon, the scenic high-point of the hike. The canyon bed is flat bedrock, the walls are vertical. A brief descent will take you to the top of the waterfall for a look over its vertiginous edge. Then turn and ascend (no boulder-hopping here) watching the canyon walls rise above you. There are several places with an almost sidewalk-like feel. There is a tendency to speed along this miraculously open and thorn-free territory. Fight that tendency!

Partial view of upper waterfall and climbers. Most of us exited on the shelf below the yellow rock.

Partial view of upper waterfall and climbers. Most of us exited on the shelf below the yellow rock.

At about 2.3 miles from the trailhead reach the upper waterfall. One of our party climbed up and past it. Most of us used a low angle exit, found by ascending the waterfall about six to eight feet and then pushing through the brush on the south side (to your right on ascent). The side of the canyon is sheltered from the sun and on this day retained quite a lot of old snow.  Footing can become a little tricky. Contour slowly upwards and reach the top of a ridge dividing the main canyon from a tributary canyon at 2.5 miles. Most of our party decided to descend the tributary canyon that lies just to the south of the rim (called “Jim’s Cut”). Others chose to head for Ortega Peak.

Jim standing at the junction between the A-Trail (left in picture) and a converging ATV trail.

Jim standing at the junction between the A-Trail (left in picture) and a converging ATV trail.

To reach the peak, ascend Jim’s Cut. At the upper reaches of the cut the terrain became brushy and swale-like. Cross the swale heading south and on the next rib-top join to the A-Trail (also known as T119) at 2.8 miles. The trail is practically a road due to ATV use. It is hard to miss.  The trail ascends into upland forest at about 3.0 miles. As the slope eases it joins with another ATV trail at 3.4 miles. On descent you will want to remember to go left, on the southerly branch. Here the A-trail becomes almost level as it contours around the summit block of Ortega Peak.

Sandy embankment on the upper side of the A-Trail marks where the climber's tread to the summit intersects.

Sandy embankment on the upper side of the A-Trail marks where the climber’s tread to the summit intersects.

Hike through open, cattle-friendly terrain, passing a water tank and watching for ATVs. The trail curves to the northeast and then swings back to a little south-of-east (a long gentle right-hand turn). Look for a climber’s tread on the uphill side of the trail. It is a little obscure, leaving the road straight into the trees on a sandy bank. This climber’s tread takes you through trees, switchbacking in places and heading straight up the hill in others until you reach a prominent rocky outcrop just below the summit. Leave the tread and ascend through the broken outcrop directly towards the summit at 3.9 miles. A summit register is contained inside an ammo box at the top.

Sierra Blanca from the summit of Ortega Peak

Sierra Blanca from the summit of Ortega Peak

Views are great towards Sierra Blanca (large swarths of its southern exposure were snow-free, hopefully the slopes at Apache Ski Resort have retained their cover better). It was breezy on Ortega Summit, but the winds must have been howling out on the Tularosa Basin. Gypsum granuals were being whipped into a haze extending from White Sands to the north as far as you could see. It was hard to see much of the San Andreas. There are intriguing views into the forested uplands east of the summit, leading to the true crest of the Sacramentos.

View from the A-Trail south across Marble Canyon.

View from the A-Trail south across Marble Canyon.

Return by way of the A-Trail, remember to take the left hand trail where the ATV tracks diverge. As you near the trailhead watch for a spot where the main tread takes a hard turn to the right (north). It is worth staying on the lesser branch trail that heads west, back towards the cars.

Recommendations:

This hike was arranged by the folks at the Alamogordo Trails meet-up group. My thanks to Michal for sharing his considerable expertise in the canyon lands above the town of Alamogordo and to the co-organizer Jim who lead to the summit.

In the winter it can be hard to find the motivation to stay in shape. This canyon was tailor-made to give you a day with a good chunk of altitude gain and some fine canyoneering. It is markedly different from the Organ Mountains adjacent to Las Cruces.

The snow and ice (not to mention the frozen tarantulas) speak to the night-time temperatures on Ortega Peak in winter. It would seem advisable to carry some warm gear with you. It was cold enough on the peak, at mid-day, that standing in the breeze without a coat was pretty chilling.

Outside Links:

Mike describes numerous hikes in detail on ArizonaHike.com. It sounds great. Check out the “imike” listings. In particular, there is a good description of “Jim’s Cut“, the side canyon that most of our group used as a descent route.

Nice photos of the canyon, particularly of the lower waterfall, can be found at Jim Harris photography.

Fossil found on A-Trail at about the point where we exited from Jim's Cut.

Fossil found on A-Trail at about the point where we exited from Jim’s Cut.

The Wikipedia article on the Sacramento Mountains says that the range is “a wide east-dipping fault block, made up entirely of limestone”. I mention this because it seems to explain why fossils are relatively easy to find on this trail. A sample of what came to light is shown in the photo to the right. The array-of-disks structure in the rock is a fossilized instance of a crinoid stem.

Overview

Morning sun on the north wall of Dog Canyon

Morning sun on the north wall of Dog Canyon

This hike will take you from the yucca-and-mesquite of the Tularosa basin up into the forested heights of the Sacramento Mountains.  Along the way you follow a canyon that, even in a drought bedeviled decade, possesses running water.  Music in the canyons!  As is typical of desert streams, the water often flows beneath the ground.  Even when it’s above ground the water is usually far below the trail.  Pack your own!

Caveat: I intended to hike to a place called Sunspot near the summit of Sacramento Peak.  The writeup here will necessarily be incomplete since my turn-around time arrived before my destination did.

Driving Directions

  • From I25 in Las Cruces, head west on US Route 70
  • After 62.5  miles, turn right (heading south) on US Route 54. The Shell station on the left will be the last chance to fuel up until you return.
  • After 9.1 miles, make a left-hand turn (across oncoming lanes) to Dog Canyon Road.
  • After 4 miles, enter the Oliver Lee Memorial State Park.  The trail leaves from the visitors center.

Data:

The trailhead begins at 4400 feet,  ascends via steep switchbacks to a shelf on the south wall at 4900 feet, then contours gently upward as it follows the canyon east.  Reaching a broad and grassy shelf at 5900 feet, it then drops back down to the canyon bottom, traverses it to the north side, climbs rapidly to a feature called the “Eyebrow”  that rises to about 6700 feet.  Entering the bottom of a large bowl the trail switchbacks inside the bowl to about 7300 feet, where it eases east out onto a pretty series of shelves before turning north again to gain the true rim of the canyon.  There it ends (after 5.1 miles) at an intersection with a road signed 90B.  The road can be followed east as it stays along the rim, then after about 2.5 miles gently descends to reach West Side Road (signed “90”).  Crossing 90, encounter the trailhead for Road Canyon.  I only got about half a mile up this trail, but I believe it will take you to a prominent man-made spire at a place called Sun Spot at 9240 feet.  Total altitude gain: 4840 (estimated).  Total milage: 9.0 miles (estimated, one way).

Trailhead

The day use fee is now $5.00 (it is listed in older guides as being $3.00).  Check with the New Mexico Energy, Minerals, and Natural Resources Department for up-to date information on the current costs.  (I found the website a bit confusing.  Look for a link at the top labeled “Divisions”, if you hover you mouse over it then a dropdown box will appear that includes “Parks”.  Click on “Parks”.  The new page displays a map that includes “Oliver Lee Memorial”. Click on that.)

Another new and regrettable feature has to to with paying your park fees.  I got to the park at 7:40 am (having left Las Cruces at about 6:00).  It was surprising to find that the Self Service Pay Station was closed.  I wound up napping in the car until about 8:15 when an attendant arrived to open the station.  He proved to be a great guy, explaining that people were finding ways to steal payments out of the steel payment box.  As a consequence the Parks division can’t allow payments to stay overnight in unattended boxes.  I hope that the EMNR Department finds a way to address this problem.  Until they do it means a late start unless you camp at the park.  Next time my plan will be to arrive a day early, get a permit for a primitive site and carry a backpack up into the canyon.

Near the entrance to the memorial there is a turn-out with water (both potable and non-potable) and trash service. It is advertised for use by RVs but the services are available to all.  I think there were several outhouses scattered about as well.  If you want to use your own RV then note that developed sites with sewage and electrical hookups are available.  However, a sign at the pay station cautioned that all the developed campsites were taken.  Apparently they are very popular – call ahead.  This is a full service trailhead!

There used to be a store called Oliver Lee Country Store on Dog Canyon Road. It appeared to be out of business when I drove past.

Hike

View from lowest shelf to the north wall of Dog Canyon and a cave opening.

View from lowest shelf to the north wall of Dog Canyon and a cave opening.

According to Wikipedia, the sheer escarpment that marks the eastern edge of the Tularosa Basin arose when a huge block of limestone sheered away from its neighbors and the western end of that block was thrust several thousand feet upwards.  Dog Canyon is an example of what can happen to a steep limestone face given a source of water and a few million years.  Your first job, then, is to follow the trail as it briskly ascends this escarpment.  The trail rises until it hits the first of a series of shelves, follows the shelf as it enters the canyon and narrows to a mere overlook, but an overlook with a great view of a huge cave across the canyon.

15 stone ruins in upper Dog Canyon I

Ruins of a stone cabin. There was surface water running just 30 feet away from the ruin.

Rounding a rib, the trail crosses the bottoms of two bowl-like structures.  At the upper end of the second bowl the trail begins to switchback and rises to a broad shelf.  This second shelf has an abundance of grass (you are no longer in the Tularosa basin!), an enormous number of flowering cacti and several “hardened” spots for camping.  At the upper end of the shelf, a little over 2.5 miles from the trailhead, the track begins to drop down towards the canyon bed.  Looking down you can see a stone ruin where someone had built a one-room building against a large boulder.   There was water flowing in the canyon at this point, which helps to explain the presence of grasses and tall trees (junipers, if I recall correctly).  This spot is about 2.8 miles from the trailhead and makes a sensible place for turning around if you’ve had enough hiking for one day.

13 view of Eyebrow in upper Dog Canyon

View to north canyon wall. The low point on the rim (extreme left hand side) is the opening to the upper bowl. To the right of this opening is a cliff face. From the top the cliff drops almost vertically until it hits the first sloping debris field. Below the first debris field is a small cliff and a smaller debris field. Below that is the bottom-most cliff and the canyon-bottom debris field .

If you’re up for more then you’re about to get more.  The photo on the right was taken from the second shelf and shows the “Eyebrow” across on the north face of the canyon.  The stone ruin is out of sight in this photo, hidden by the grassy shelf in the foreground.  If you look just above the shelf, you can see a faint trail on distant wall leading up out of the canyon toward the deep  gully that splits the cliff face on the right.  The trail enters that gully where enormous labor has been expended to give the trail a stone staircase.  The staircase ascends the first cliff band and then turns left onto the debris field that separates the two lowest-and-shortest cliff bands.  It then traverses to the left, rising steeply in places, until it passes just above the large cliffs on the extreme left side of the image.  There is considerable exposure in numerous places. The Eyebrow is a poor place to bring acrophobic friends.  The views are spectacular.

Shelf below the north canyon rim.

Shelf below the north canyon rim.

Above the Eyebrow the trail ascends into a north-trending bowl, but eventually turns east and departs from the bowl onto a third shelf.  This shelf is currently dry, but there are depressions suggesting that in wet times it may be home to several small tarns.  Even dry it is a beautiful spot.  Eventually the trail turns back north for a short series of switchbacks that takes you through evergreens to the true rim of the canyon.  After a few hundred yards the trail ends at road 90B.

Road 90B is rather long (2.5 miles), somewhat rough, flat, and offers only modest inspiration.  It is truly forested, although the trees are all so small that I suspect that it was either heavily logged or burned in the not-too-distant past.  It is popular with ATVs and high-clearance vehicle drivers, don’t expect it to be especially lonely.  There was much evidence attesting to the popularity of both Bud and Coors products.  As you get further along you can see the white man-made spire high above you at Sun Spot.  After a short, gentle descent road 90B intersects with another gravel road (in much better shape) called West Side Road on maps but signed as “90”.

Directly across road 90 is the Road Canyon trailhead.  I’m pretty sure that this trail will take you to Sun Spot, although I didn’t get there myself.  The trail goes through a pine forest.  There was so much duff on the trail that I was initially uncertain of where the trail bed was, but the trail gets  clearer as the terrain gets steeper.  At my turnaround time, 2:00 pm, I was on a small knoll in a pine thicket.  A fine, cool place to have a drink of water and eat a Payday bar. I’m guessing that there would be less than a mile and perhaps only a few hundred feet of gain to get to Sun Spot.  It was a good idea to turn around since the sun was almost setting when I finally got back to the trailhead.

43 back view of canyon near bottom

Look back into Dog Canyon from the lowest shelf, nearly at sunset

Return by the same route back to the trailhead.  A previous post noted that in six months of New Mexico hiking I had not seen a rattlesnake.  (Of course, much of that period was winter).  That has now changed.  In the lower part of the upper bowl (just above the Eyebrow) a distinctive rattle sounded, from a snake resting in the shade of a yucca plant about a foot away from where I had just walked.  The scales adjacent to the rattle were pretty dark, so it was probably a black tailed rattler.  Apparently it was a friendly interaction, a reminder from one vertebrate to another that movement in the desert calls for a high degree of situational awareness.  Taking the advice, I spent the rest of the descent scanning carefully for sinusoidal forms.

Recommendations

37 me along trail - bottle saluteThis is a great hike and a strenuous hike.   Next time I will make it an overnighter and camp on the shelf just down-canyon of the stone ruins (about 2.75 miles in).  Watch for reptiles, keep an eye out for fossils in the limestone walls along the Eyebrow.  Everyone says that the guided nature hike along the canyon bottom near the Visitors Center is rewarding.  Sunlight reflected off those sheer walls could be brutal on a mid-summers day.